The Makalu - Mera Peak traverse

Although most of this trip (70%) is great trekking, a major part reaches out to the real Himalayan climbing expeditions. Therefore it is a fantastic introduction to Himalayan climbing. In this expedition we will take you from the sub tropics of Tumlingtar in the far East of Nepal into the isolated and high alpine areas of Sherpani Col, the Baruntse glacier, West Col and from the Honku valley to the 6476m high summit of Mera Peak. This alternative Mera Peak expedition is a fantastic journey for adventurous, fit and energetic people. It's combination of almost everything that Nepal has to offer: different climate zones, different cultures, great trekking in very remoite areas and great alpine climbing in Himalayan style. Although basic alpine climbing experience is an advantage, it's not mandatory. Trust us, you will love this trip!

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+ Trip description

Crossing Sherpani Col and West Col to reach the summit of Mera Peak

The first part of this Makalu Mera expedition starts from the tropical village of Tumlingtar and climbs up to the remote Makalu Base Camp, at an altitude of approximately 5000m. For most trekkers, the Makalu base camp is the final destination. We continue with a stunning alpine trail across two high passes! First, we will trek to Sherpani Col (6135m) that includes a short rock, snow climb to the summit. From here we'll descent to the serene Baruntse glacier and across the second high col, the West Col (6145m) all the way to the Baruntse Base Camp, through the Honku Valley, across Mera La and finally to Mera Peak (6476m).

Entering the heart of the Himalayas

The Makalu Mera expedition is a high and spectacular alpine route that is only suitable to well acclimatized people who are strong and fit. You’ll climb into a world of snow and ice, stunning peaks and deep blue skies, right into the heart of the Himalayas. After crossing Sherpani Col you have reached the point of no-return from where we all have to continue to the steep West Col and down to the pleasant heights of the Baruntse Base Camp and the Honku Valley. Since you are well acclimatized at this point, even an altitude of 5000m feels great! From here you will be ready for the last part of this expedition: the easy trek through the Honku Valley, to gentle climb to Mera Peak Base Camp, the ascent to Mera Peak high camp and the long climb to the summit of Nepal’s highest trekking peak, Mera Peak of 6476m. From its summit you will have one of the most stunning views of Mount Everest (8848m) one can find in whole Nepal. This superb view includes many other 8000m peaks as well: Cho Oyo (8153m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8475m), Kanchenjunga (8586m)! The Makalu-Mera Expedition is definitely one of Nepal’s best trips one can make and a great alternative way to climb Mera Peak!

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Makalu Mera Expedition via Sherpani Col		Different options
1 - Kathmandu - Briefing 2 - Tumlingtar - Khandbari 3 - Bhotebas 4 - Mure 5 - Seduwa 6 - Tashigoan 7 - Kauma 8 - Shipton La - Dobato 9 - Temalan Kharka 10 - Rest- & acclimatization 11 - Langmale Kharka 12 - Sherson 13 - Makalu Base Camp 14 - Rest- & acclimatization 15 - Upper Barun Glacier Camp	16 - Sherpani Col Base Camp 17 - Rest- & acclimatization 18 - Baruntse Base Camp 19 - Honku Valley 20 - Kongme Dingma 21 - Mera Peak Base Camp 22 - Mera Peak High Camp 23 - Summit Mera Peak 24 - Spare day 25 - Tangnag 26 - Tashing Dingma 27 - Thuli Kharka 28 - Lukla 29 - Kathmandu	15 days - Mera Peak / Normal route 21 days - Sherpani Col / Amphu Labtsa 23 days - Mera Peak / Mingbo La 25 days - Mera peak / Amphu Labtsa 28 days - Mera Peak / Amphu L. / Island Peak Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Services
Base Camp services are not available in this trip

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated this Makalu Mera Peak Expedition with CO-E2. This means that it's a intermediate to very streneous trip while the climbing sections are easy (facile) to little difficult (peu difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

From Tumlingtar across Sherpani Col to Mera Peak
In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of Tumlingtar using a small STOL aircraft. This trip takes you through different climate zones, starting from the low, tropical area’s through warm and humid area’s, little villages, beautiful green valleys, wild forests where the ground can get muddy and slippery, across suspension bridges and wild rivers to remote and icy alpine area’s. The first high pass in this trip is the Shipton La (4127m), covering three different sub-passes. Crossing Sherpani Col itself involves some short, but steep rock, snow & ice sections with an angle of 40-60 degrees. The descent from Sherpani Col to the Baruntse glacier is steep on mixed terrain. The descent from West Col to Baruntse Base Camp includes a 300m long steep abseil on snow. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. Climbing Mera Peak from the base camp is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 35 degrees. However, there are some crevassed areas that have to be crossed. Almost every year the summit section changes. Sometimes the last part becomes a bit difficult due to crevasses or a short, steep climb that again requires the use of fixed rope and a jumar (ascender).

In general...
You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: Mid March, April, Early May
• Autumn: October, November

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Rain may be expected in the lower areas below Shipton La. The Shipton La may be covered in deep snow. If you like to try to avoid a late monsoon and possible flight cancellations, you should start this trip from half October. Normally, the weather will be more stable by then. However, mountain storms and fog are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.