Climbing Island Peak 6189m

The Solo Khumbu is famous for its highest mountain: Mt Everest (8848m), Sherpa culture and Island Peak! In this Island Peak expedition we combine an off the beaten track across three high passes with the ascent of this popular trekking peak with an incredible height of 6189m. In this expedition we don't trek to the mountain right away. First we will follow the old Tibetan trade route through the remote Renjo valley which has been closed for trekkers for a long time. We trek and climb from the Renjo Valley to Gokyo Valley by crossing the Renjo La (5550m). We explore the Gokyo area, visit impressive view points, visit the Everest base camp and cross the high passes Cho La (5340m) and Kongma La (5535m) before we head to Island Peak itself. Well trained and acclimatized we head to Island Peak base camp, its high camp and climb across the beautiful summit ridge to the snowy summit. Island Peak is a popular mountain to climb in Nepal and there's a good reason for it! This Island Peak expedition is a great journey through the Solo Khumbu, Sherpa culture combined with a challenging climb of a 6000m Himlayan peak.

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+ Trip description

From Lukla to the Renjo La (5500m)

From Kathmandu we will fly to the small mountain village of Lukla in the Solo Khumbu. It's great to be here, away from the noise and... fresh air! From Lukla we will follow the trail through the Dudh Kosi Valley (milk river) to the pleasant trade center of the Khumbu: Namche Bazar. Here, the first Himalayan mountains appear against the blue skies: Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Thamserku and Kangtaiga. If the weather is clear you will have an impressive sight of Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Mount Everest! We leave the crowds and follow the old and remote trade route to Tibet through the wild Renjo valley. After some days we leave this old trail behind and turn East to the remote areas of the Renjo La, the first high pass. The Renjo La (5500m) is reached after a spectacular, but tiring climb through wild alpine areas, across good trails and big stone stairs. From the pass you have a stunning view on Everest and many other Himalayan peak. It;s a great view point.

Across Cho La & Kongma La to Island Peak

After crossing the Renjo La we will descent to the little lake village of Gokyo. Here you can opt for climbing Gokyo Ri (5340m), to visit a range of beautiful mountains lakes (protected wetlands) or even climb Ngozumpa-Tse (5553m). As we're getting closer to Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse the views become more and more dramatic. After our Gokyo exploration, we will cross the famous Cho La (5420m) and head to Kala Pattar (5550m) and/or the Everest Base Camp. The crossing of the Kongma La (5535m) brings us eventually in the village of Chukung, the last settlement before heading to Island Peak. Properly acclimatized we will trek to Island Peak’s base camp, Island Peak high camp and Island Peaks summit without real difficulties. It’s a great classic alpine climb reaching almost 6200m via a beautiful, exposed summit ridge. Reaching the Island Peaks summit is a great final of this very complete Island Peak expedition that ends in Namche Bazar and Lukla. This expedition will be an unforgettable experience involving a very complete and rewarding approach to Island Peak.

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Island Peak Expedition via 3 high cols & Everest BC		Different options
1 - Kathmandu - Briefing 2 - Lukla - TokTok 3 - Namche Bazar 4 - Rest & acclimatization 5 - Thame 6 - Marlung 7 - Langden 8 - Renjo Lake 9 - Renjo La - Gokyo 10 - Gokyo Ri / Ngozumpa-Tse 11 - Cho La Base Camp 12 - Cho La - Dzonglha	13 - Gorak Shep 14 - Kala Pattar / Everest BC 15 - Kongma La Base Camp 16 - Kongma La - Chukhung 17 - Island Peak Base Camp 18 - Island Peak High Camp 19 - Summit Island Peak 20 - Spare day 21 - Dingboche 22 - Namche Bazar 23 - Lukla 24 - Kathmandu	16 days - Island Peak / Normal route Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes all organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Services
Base Camp services are not available in this trip

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated this Island Peak Expedition with DO-E2. This means that it's a streneous to very streneous trip while the climbing sections are easy (facile) to little difficult (peu difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

The trek to Island Peak Base Camp across the high passes
The trek from the starting point of Lukla to the Renjo La, the first high pass does not require specific experience or skills. The last section of the climb to Renjo La becomes a bit steeper, but the trail does not include any difficulties. It's a long route across tiring, stone stairs. From the Renjo La it's a long descent across unstable en slippery moraines and snowfields. The terrain behind Gokyo becomes wilder where trails may not be visible anymore. The summit of Gokyo Ri is reached by following an obvious trail. Ngozumpa-Tse is a rough, steep climb across rocks and perhaps snow. High pass Cho La is reached from Gokyo after crossing the Ngozumpa-Tse glacier and a gentle, but long climb across good trails. From Cho La's base camp it's a 3 hour steep climb across rocks and perhaps snow and ice. Some scrambling is required here, while stone fall is common. The descent from Cho La includes the crossing of the Cho La glacier and it's rocky sections where it may be become very slippery. The trail ends in a wide, grassy valley with easy trails al the way to Lobuche and Gorak Shep. The last part to Kala Pattar and/or Mt Everest base camp may be a tiring walk across good trails. The trail to the base camp leads across unstable moraines with many different paths and many ups and downs. Mt Everest base camp is built on a rocky glacier just near the Khumbu Ice Fall. To reach Kongma La you will have to cross another moraine glacier. The trail to Kongma La is a steep climb across rocky trails, scree and big boulders. Stone fall is common here. The descent to Chukung follows good trails and grassy fields. The trail to Island Peak's base camp follows the left bank of the Imja glacier lake and its massive glacier. The trail offers no further difficulties up to Island Peak high camp.

Climbing Island Peak
Climbing Island Peak from its high camp includes climbing an obvious rock gully with a couple of rock steps. From here, the ridge leads to a wide and crevassed glacier that is to be crossed before climbing a 100m high snow/ice slope with an angle of 45 degrees. From here a beautiful, classic, exposed snow ridge leads to the summit of Island Peak. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. The slopes in this trip can be steep so now and then. Landslides and falling rocks are possible at certain stages.

In general...
You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: March, April, May
• Autumn: October, November, December

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +15ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -15ºC

Rain may be expected in the lower areas around Lukla and Namche, somtimes even higher up. If you like to try to avoid a late monsoon and possible flight cancellations, you should start this trip from half October. Normally, the weather will be more stable by then. However, mountain storms and fog are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.