General trip description

Expedition route: Kathmandu, Lukla, Namche Bazar, Renjo La, Gokyo, Cho La, Lobuche, Mt Everest BC, Lukla, Kathmandu

In this trip you start with a spectacular flight to an altitude of 2800m in a small airplane. You trek across very good trails, though little mountain villages, deep, green valley’s, across suspension bridges and wild rivers up to cold alpine area’s. From Namche Bazar, the main trade center with all tourist facilities, you leave the main Everest trail and follow the unspoiled Bhote Kosi valley through wide valleys to Gokyo, still across good trails. Gokyo is build next to Gokyo Ri and several lakes. Behind Gokyo the scenery becomes wilder where the trails may not be visible anymore. Ngozumpa-Tse is a short but rough climb across rocks and perhaps snow. By crossing a moraine glacier and you will reach the base of Cho La. This is a steep climb across rocks and perhaps snow. The rocky descent ends in a wide, grassy valley from easy trails lead to Lobuche and Gorak Shep. The last part to Kala Pattar and/or Mt Everest BC may be a tiring walk across good trails. The trail to the base camp leads across unstable moraine trails with many different paths and many ups and downs. Mt Everest base camp is built on a rocky glacier just near the Khumbu Ice Fall. To reach Kongma La you will have to trek back to Lobuche for crossing a moraine glacier. The trail to Kongma La is a steeper climb across rocky trails, scree and big boulders, followed by a long, tiring descent to Chukung across good trails and grassy fields. The trail to Island Peak's base camp follows the left bank of the Imja glacier lake and its massive glacier. The trail offers no further difficulties. Depending on our situation we may stay at the base camp (5200m), or climb a few hours higher up to the high camp (5600m). Summit day starts with climbing an obvious rock gully with a couple of rock steps. From here, the ridge leads to a wide and crevassed glacier that is to be crossed before climbing a 100m high snow/ice slope with an angle of 45 degrees. From here a beautiful, classic, exposed snow ridge leads to the summit of Island Peak. The slopes in this trip can be steep so now and then. Landslides and falling rocks are possible at certain stages.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style only or in combination with lodge style. Classic expedition style means that the trekking route and the route to the summit are approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: trekking camps, base camp and one or more high camps. Simple guesthouses may be available at certain stages and may be used, too.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong team of (other) climbing Sherpa’s, cooks and porters and/or yaks. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions; he knows the route and has climbed the passes and mountains in this trip or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. The expedition leader and the climbing Sherpa’s prepare and secure the trekking / climbing route and establish al camps. A strong team of porters carries all equipment & food. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the different goals in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

The trekking part in this expedition does not require specific experience or skills. You just should feel comfortable walking on steep, rocky, slippery and unstable terrain. Crossing Renjo La, Cho La and Kongma La involves some short, but steep rock & snow sections with an angle of 30 to 40 degrees. Climbing Island Peak is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 35 degrees. However, there are crevassed areas that have to be crossed. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. View the trip’s difficulty for more details. This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: mid March, April, early May
- Autumn: October, November

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.