Climbing Shishapangma 8007m

Shishapangma is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and is located in south-central Tibet, just a few kilometers from the border with Nepal. Different from other 8000m peaks in this area, Shishapangma is not located on the Nepal/Tibetan border, but completely in Tibet. Shishapangma is also the lowest 8000m peak in the world and considered to be a very climbable 8000m peak in the Himalayas with a base camp that is easily reached by car from Kathmandu or Lhasa. This Shishapangma expedition is a great choice if you're looking for a relatively short high altitude climb with a relatively low avalanche risk and a very nice, classic rock & snow summit ridge.

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+ Trip description

The drive to Shishapangma's Base Camp

Within this expedition you will climb Shishapangma in Tibet. Like most of our expeditions, this trip starts in Kathmandu, the place to complete your climbing gear and for us to finalize your Chinese visa and Tibetan travel permits. The first part of this expedition is five days drive and acclimatize trip to Kodari (the border town between Nepal and China), Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri and Shishapagngma's Base Camp. You actually drive through the Himalayas! Reaching the Tibetan plateau, the landscape changes in wider, green and sandy valleys with some of the world’s highest passes that are accessible by car. The ride offers stunning views on the Tibetan mountain ranges, some of the best sightseeing spots and off course the Tibetan culture. The base camp is reached al the way by car...

Climbing Shishapangma

From the base camp you will trek up to Intermediate Camp (5200m) and Advanced Base Camp (5400m). This is an effective three days training and acclimatizing trip of amazing panoramas, green fields, rocky moraine area’s blue skies and giant Himalayan peaks. After proper acclimatization in the ABC you will start your climbing schedule. It’s a three weeks lasting process of acclimatizing, ascending, descending, resting, exploring, preparing camp 1(6200m), camp 2 (6700m ) and camp 3 (7400m), staying healthy and waiting for the right window for Shishapangma’s summit bid. Climbing Shishapangma is relatively straight forward and non-technical until the summit ridge. The summit ridge has some fairly steep sections in the beginning, flattening again higher up. At all difficult sections you will use ropes to climb up and descent again. Once you have summited and taken some valuable pictures you will descent via the same route to the ABC. Once more you will drive across the Tibetan plateau, through the Himalayas all the way back to Kathmandu.

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Shishapangma Expedition North-East ridge		Different options
1 - Kathmandu - Briefing 2 - Kathmandu - Free 3 - Nyalam 4 - Rest & acclimatization 5 - Tingri 6 - Rest & acclimatization 7 - Shishapangma Base Camp 8 - Rest & acclimatization 9 - Interim Camp 10 - Rest & acclimatization 11 - Shishapangma ABC 12 - Shishapangma ABC 13 - Excursion Camp 1 14 - Shishapangma ABC 15 - Camp 1 16 - Excursion Camp 2 17 - Shishapangma ABC	18 - Shishapangma ABC 19 - Camp 1 20 - Camp 2 21 - Excursion Camp 3 22 - Shishapangma ABC 23 - Shishapangma ABC 24 - Shishapangma ABC 25 - Camp 1 26 - Camp 2 27 - Camp 3 28 - Shishapangma Summit 29 - Shishapangma Summit 30 - Shishapangma Summit 31 - Shishapangma ABC 32 - Shishapangma Base Camp 33 - Tingri 34 - Kathmandu	36 days - Shishapangma via Lhasa Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) itself for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your trip to the base camp and in the base camp itself as comfortable as possible. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

Base Camp Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated the Shishapangma Expedition in Tibet with E2/4. This means that it's a very streneous trip while the climbing sections are a bit difficult (peu difficile) to difficult (difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

The drive and trek to Shishapangma Base Camp
In this expedition you will drive from Kathmandu to Kodari at the border with China/Tibet. After all custom formalities you will drive on through the Himalayas and across the Tibetan plateau all the way to Mount Shishapangma’s Chinese Base Camp. Depending on the weather, the road may be very muddy and bumpy forcing a slow adventurous ride across bridges, streams and small, steep road sections. From the base camp you will trek across easy moraine trails to the Intermediate Camp and the ABC. ABC is located at the glacier on the west side of the moraines at 5400m.

Climbing Shishapangma
The climb to camp 1 crosses a glacier to a remarkable flat area with lots of seracs (ice towers). An easy snow slope of 35 degrees leads to camp 1 at 6200m. Camp 2 at 6700m is reached by climbing another snow/ice slope with an angle of 30-35 degrees. An almost flat plateau and a wide, low angled slope lead to the obvious rocks and the buttress around 7400m where camp 3 will be established. The most technical part is to come in the final section as the summit ridge starts with a 40-60 degrees angled slope of snow & ice. After this part the route becomes easier and ends in a small, central summit at 8007m. For most climbers this will be the final summit. However, the real and highest ‘main summit’ is a several hours of delicate climbing away, connected to the central summit by an unstable, sharp ridge. For this reason, most climbers and expedition organizers consider the central summit as the final summit. After summiting, you will descent along the same route.

In general...
Shishapangma is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world. Although Shishapangma is a relatively, non-technical climb, it involves some steep snow, hard ice and rock sections. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. However, you should feel comfortable with alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions at higher altitude, like: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. All members should have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (6000m-7000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: April, May
• Autumn: September, October

Is Spring or Autumn better?
Spring is the best season to climb Shishapangma, in Autumn, the weather is more unstable.

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -40ºC

The Shishapangma region is known for its strong winds (chill factor) higher up the mountain. Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms and fog (white out) are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.