General trip description

Expedition route: Katmandu, Kodari, Zangmu, Nylam, Tingri, Chinese BC, Intermediate Camp, ABC, Summit. Same route back

In this expedition you will drive from Kathmandu to Kodari at the border with China/Tibet. After all custom formalities you will drive on through the Himalayas and across the Tibetan plateau all the way to Cho Oyu’s Chinese Base Camp. Depending on the weather, the road may be very muddy and bumpy forcing a slow adventurous ride across bridges, streams and small, steep road sections. From base camp you will trek across moraine trails and little glacier streams to the flat and rocky Advanced Base Camp. From ABC, it’s a straight forward climb across the East Rongbuk Glacier to the nicely shaped pyramid peak of Lhakpa Ri. The first part of the climb Lhakpa Ri covers a snow field with an angle of 10 - 20 degrees steepening to an angle of 35 degrees. The route to the summit follows a beautiful, classic snow ridge with an average angle of 40 degrees. The climb has no specific technical difficulties. After a successful summit attempt you will descent all the way down to Lhakpa Ri base camp or the ABC.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style. Classic expedition style means that the summit is approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: base camp, advanced base camp and one or more high camps.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, a liaisons officer, drivers, yak drivers. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions and has climbed Lhakpa Ri or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. A strong team of experienced climbing Sherpa’s prepares and secures the climbing route, establishes al camps and carries all equipment & food up and down the mountain. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the summit in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

Lhakpa Ri is one of the easiest 7000m mountains to climb in the world. Climbing Lhakpa Ri is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 40 degrees and there are a no technical climbing sections. However, to ensure safety, ropes will be fixed or used as main rope at all difficult sections. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in rope techniques and using ice axe and crampons, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. You should have knowledge and experience in winter camping and prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (6000-6500m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 7000m peaks: This mountain is more than 7000m high. Climbing to 7000m may involve possible health problems, lethargy and extreme weather conditions.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: April, May
- Autumn: September, October

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10C / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +25ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -30ºC

Tibet and Tibetan mountains are known for its strong winds (chill factor). Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heavy rain, dust, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.