General trip description

Expedition route: Katmandu, Kodari, Zangmu, Nylam, Tingri, Chinese BC, Intermediate Camp, ABC, North Col, Summit. Same route back.

In this expedition you will drive from Kathmandu to Kodari at the border with China/Tibet. After all custom formalities you will drive on through the Himalayas and across the Tibetan plateau all the way to Mount Everest’s Chinese Base Camp. Depending on the weather, the road may be very muddy and bumpy forcing a slow adventurous ride across bridges, streams and small, steep road sections. From the base camp on the large gravel plateau you will trek 13 kilometers across easy moraine trails to the ABC, situated on the North-Western side moraine of East Rongbuk Glacier, under the slopes of Changtse. From the ABC, the you need to follow the moraine until a flat glacier is crossed to the base of the steep snow/ice slope (400m high, 30-80 degrees angle depending on crevasses) which leads up to the North Col and camp 1. The route to camp 2 follows the North-East ridge of which the lower part (until 7560m) is an easy snow ridge. Higher up the trail follows a mixed terrain of rock/scree and snow. From camp 2 to 3, the route leads across easy rocky terraces without real technical difficulties. From camp 3 at around 8300m the route continues across the long North-East ridge with some little rock steps, scree slopes and the famous ‘three steps’. The first step involves a 35m climb across large boulders followed by a traverse through mixed (rock/ice) and very exposed terrain. The next goal is the Mushroom Rock and a small depression where many climbers change oxygen their bottles. At 8580m the second step comes within reach. This is a 50m steep rock climb across large boulders, through a steep snow gully to the famous ladder (5m). An easy part leads to the last and easy third step at 8690m. What’s left is a snowfield traverse to the limestone bands and the final summit snow ridge (50 degrees). The summit is normally reached after 8-12 hours climbing. After a successful summit attempt you will descent in a couple of days to ABC. Depending on the situation and time frame, you may choose to return to Kathmandu earlier as planned or hang out in ABC until the entire expedition departs from the mountain.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style. Classic expedition style means that the summit is approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: base camp, advanced base camp and one or more high camps.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, a liaisons officer, drivers, yak drivers. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions and has climbed Mount Everest or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. A strong team of experienced climbing Sherpa’s prepares and secures the climbing route, establishes al camps and carries all equipment & food up and down the mountain. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the summit in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

Although Mount Everest is known as a ‘not technical’ mountain, it is the highest peak of the planet and notorious for it’s number of deaths due to accidents, health problems at extreme altitude, complete lethargy and extreme difficulties in weather conditions. The ascent and descent itself is not very technical as most of the slopes do not exceed an angle of 30 to 50 degrees. However, there are a few, short, technical climbing sections of very steep rock. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections and ladders may be used at some places. However, you should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions at higher altitude, like: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. All members should have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (7000m-8000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: April, May
- Autumn: September, October

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10C / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +25ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -37ºC

The Tibetan side of Mt Everest is known for its cold and strong winds (chill factor) higher up the mountain. Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heavy rain, dust, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.