General trip description

Expedition route: Katmandu, Lukla, Namche Bazar, Pheriche, Gorak Shep, Everest BC, Lhotse Face, Summit. Same route back.

In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of Lukla using a small STOL aircraft. From Lukla you trek across very good trails, though little mountain villages, deep, green valley’s, across suspension bridges and wild rivers up to cold alpine area’s. From Namche Bazar, the main trade center with all tourist facilities, you trek through wide and deep valleys to the famous villages of Pangboche, Pheriche (and the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic), Lobuche and Gorak Shep. From here you will trek across the tiring moraines of the Khumbu glacier until you reach the base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall. Reaching camp 1 requires climbing through the dangerous labyrinth of ice towers, crevasses and ladders of the Ice Fall itself. This may be the trickiest part of the expedition! The next goal is to cross the Western Cwm to camp 2 (advanced base camp); a wide, flat and crevassed glacier valley. As there’s almost no wind in the Cwm, it can get very hot here, a different challenge. From camp 2 to 3 you will gently trek to the hard packed ice and snow of the Lhotse Face. Reaching camp 3 requires climbing the slope with an angle of 45 degrees for about 900m, using fixed ropes. The steep angle and hard ice make it difficult to get a grip with your crampons, while clipping on and off the fixed ropes. Until this point the expedition is exactly the same as the Everest expeditons. The route changes from camp 3. So, the next goal is to reach camp4 around 8000m at he upper slopes of the steep and icy Lhotse face, above some rocky parts. The summit day involves the final part of the Lhotse face and the Lhotse couloir, a 30 to 50 degrees mixed gully. A rocky part with good steps leads to the summit. The summit is normally reached after 5-10 hours climbing. After a successful summit attempt you will descent in a couple of days to ABC. Depending on the situation and time frame, you may choose to return to Kathmandu earlier as planned or hang out in ABC until the entire expedition departs from the mountain.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style only or in combination with lodge style. Classic expedition style means that the trekking route and the route to the summit are approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: trekking camps, base camp and one or more high camps. Simple guesthouses may be available at certain stages and may be used, too.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, a liaisons officer, drivers, yak drivers. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions and has climbed Lhotse or Mount Everest or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. A strong team of experienced climbing Sherpa’s prepares and secures the climbing route, establishes al camps and carries all equipment & food up and down the mountain. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the summit in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

Climbing Lhotse is not very technical as most of the slopes do not exceed an angle of 30 to 50 degrees. However, there are a few, short, technical climbing sections of steep rock and very hard ice. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections and ladders may be used at some places. However, you should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions at higher altitude, like: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. All members should have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (7000m-8000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: April, May
- Autumn: September, October

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10C / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -37ºC

Lhotse is known for its cold and it strong winds (chill factor) above camp 3. Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.