Climbing Lhotse 8516m

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world and located opposite of Mt Everest’s South face in the Solo Khumbu, Nepal. The South col actually connects Mt Everest and Lhotse to eachother, which means that both expeditions follow the same route across the Khumbu Ice Fall and the Western Cwm to camp 3 at the Lhotse face. On the way to Everest's Camp 4, just above the Yellow Band, the Lhotse route takes another direction. Some very strong climbers have even climbed Lhotse and Mt Everest in one, long expedition, but for most of us, Lhotse is a great, single very high mountain to climb, very close to Everest. Many climbers agree that Lhotse is more difficult to climb than Everest due to the very steep ice and rock sections in the Lhotse couloir. So, you definately need to be very fit and an experienced climber. There are a few extra advantages, though, the Lhotse climbing permit is much cheaper and there will be no crowds on the mountain from Camp 4 to the summit!

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+ Trip description

The trek to the Everest Base Camp

The first part of this expedition is the classical trek to the Everest base camp itself. The trek to the base camp is a great training and acclimatizing trip, trekking through beautiful and peaceful mountain sceneries, green valleys and little Sherpa settlements. You can easily trek to the base camp yourself as you'll find plenty of good lodges along the trail. If you like you can extend your trek by exploring different areas of the Solo Khumbu, like the Renjo, Gokyo and Chukung valleys, getting fit and well acclimatized. The first important goal is to reach the base camp in good health and properly acclimatized, so don't rush it, take your time. The standard itinerary to trek from Lukla to the Everest base camp is 9 days. Like we said, you can also extend it if you want. You can trek with one of our Sherpa's, you can trek alone or with friends. The costs for lodging and food during this short trek are not included as you're far better of if you pay for food and lodging yourself. To give you some guidance, we will suggest you our preferred lodges along the trail.

Climbing Lhotse

After your arrival in the base camp, you deserve some rest in your private tent while our excellent crew will take care of you. In the first days an important acclimatizing and training program continues until you’re ready to start climbing. Climbing Lhotse is a multi week process of acclimatizing, ascending, descending, resting, exploring, preparing camp 1 (5900m), camp 2 (6500m ), camp 3 (7500m) and camp 4 (7850m). In the mean time you need to stay healthy, energized and patient till the time that a proper window gives you an opportunity to make a summit attempt. This is one the main challenges, to keep yourself motivated and energized in this cold en rough mountain environmment.

Climbing Lhotse is more difficult than climbing Everest. First of all the mountain is 8516m high, so the altitude and physical exertion are incomprehensible, even the slightest difficulty can be hard to deal with. As a matter of fact, the climb involves several more technical and potentially dangerous sections. The first serious obstacle is the beautiful, but risky Khumbu Ice Fall with its notorious seracs, crevasses and shifting blocks of ice. The next obstacles are the steep rock sections of the 'Geneva Spur' and the 'Yellow Band'. From here the route follows the steep Lhotse face and the even steeper Lhotse couloir, which requires serious commitment and concentration. That of course, makes Lhotse an attractive mountain to climb, and... the views on Everest are just fantastic. Very, very spectacular!

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Lhotse Expedition (Lhotse Couloir)		Different options
1 - Kathmandu - Briefing 2 - Kathmandu - Free 3 - Lukla - Phakding 4 - Namche 5 - Rest & acclimatization 6 - Pangboche 7 - Pheriche 8 - Rest & acclimatization 9 - Lobuche 10 - Gorak Shep - Kala Pattar 11 - Everest Base Camp 12 - Everest Base Camp 13 - Everest Base Camp 14 - Excursion to Camp 1 15 - Everest Base Camp 16 - Everest Base Camp 17 - Camp 1 18 - Visit Camp 2 / Camp 1 19 - Camp 2 20 - Everest Base Camp 21 - Everest Base Camp 22 - Everest Base Camp 23 - Camp 1 24 - Camp 2 25 - Camp 2 26 - Visit Camp 3 / Camp 2 27 - Everest Base Camp 28 - Everest Base Camp 29 - Everest Base Camp 30 - Everest Base Camp	31 - Camp 1 32 - Camp 2 33 - Camp 2 34 - Camp 3 35 - Camp 2 36 - Everest Base Camp 37 - Khumbu 38 - Khumbu 39 - Everest Base Camp 40 - Camp 2 41 - Camp 3 42 - Camp 4 43 - Summit Lhotse / Camp 4 44 - Camp 2 45 - Everest Base Camp 46 - Everest Base Camp 47 - Everest Base Camp 48 - Everest Base Camp 49 - Camp 2 50 - Camp 3 51 - Camp 4 52 - Summit Lhotse / Camp 4 53 - Camp 2 54 - Everest Base Camp 55 - Everest Base Camp 56 - Pangboche 57 - Namche 58 - Lukla 59 - Kathmandu 60 - Extra day	Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) itself for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your trip to the base camp and in the base camp itself as comfortable as possible. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

Base Camp Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated the Lhotse Expedition in Nepal with E4. This means that it's a very streneous trip while the climbing sections are difficult (difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

Everest Base Camp - 5350m
In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of the small but busy mountain village of Lukla using a small STOL aircraft. From Lukla you trek across very good trails, though little mountain villages, deep, green valley’s, across suspension bridges and wild rivers up to colder alpine area’s. From Namche Bazar, the main trade center with all tourist facilities, you trek through wide and deep valleys to the famous villages of Pangboche, Pheriche (and the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic), Lobuche and Gorak Shep. From here you will trek across the tiring moraines of the Khumbu glacier until you reach the Everest base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall.

Lhotse Camp 1 - 5900m
Camp 1 is reached by climbing through the dangerous labyrinth of ice towers, crevasses and ladders of the Ice Fall itself. The entire route throught the Ice Fall is chosen and maintained by the Ice Fall doctors, a specialized team of Sherpas that are responsible for this task. Every expedition pays a fee per climber to use these services, sodo we. Climbing through the Ice Fall may be the trickiest, but also ome of the most fascinating and beautiful parts of the expedition! Camp 1 is located a few hundred meters at a flat section above the Khumbu Ice Fall

Lhotse Camp 2 - 6500m
The next goal is to cross the Western Cwm to camp 2 (advanced base camp); a wide, flat and crevassed glacier valley. As there’s almost no wind in the Cwm, it can get very hot here, a different challenge that should not be underestimated. From camp 2 to 3 you will gently trek to the hard packed ice and snow of the Lhotse Face.

Lhotse Camp 3 - 7500m
Reaching camp 3 requires climbing the slope with an angle of 45 degrees for about 900m, using fixed ropes. The steep angle and hard ice make it difficult to get a grip with your crampons, while clipping on and off the fixed ropes, so be careful here!.

Lhotse Camp 4 - 7850m
The route to Lhotse changes from the Everest route above the Yellow Band. The next goal is to reach camp 4 around 7850m at he upper slopes of the steep and icy Lhotse face, above some obvious rocks. The route is very exposed and offers no protection from falling snow, ice, rock or an avalanche. There are very limited resting spots.

Lhotse Summit - 8516m
The summit day involves the final part of the Lhotse face and the Lhotse couloir, a 30 to 50 degrees (some short parts are steeper) mixed gully of snow, ice and rock. The final rocky part with good steps leads to the summit. The Lhotse summit is normally reached after 5-10 hours climbing.

Back to Everest Base Camp
After a successful summit attempt you will descent in a couple of days to Everest Base Camp. Depending on the situation and time frame, you may choose to return to Kathmandu earlier as planned or hang out in Everest Base Camp until the entire expedition departs from the mountain.

In general...
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. The ascent and descent itself becomes more technical above Camp 3 as the slopes turn into 50 degrees steep snow, hard ice and rock. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections and ladders may be used at some places. However, you should feel comfortable with advanced rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions at higher altitude, like: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. All members should have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (7000m-8000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: April, May
• Autumn: September, October

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -40ºC

The Nepalese side of Mt Everest and Lhotse is known for its strong winds (chill factor) higher up the mountain. Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms and fog (white out) are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.