Climbing Baruntse 7129m

Baruntse is a beautiful 7129m high snow peak located in the Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area. It’s because of this remote location that the Baruntse is still a relatively unknown mountain, although its popularity has been growing in the last years. As the mountain's South-East Ridge is a relatively straightforward climb, it offers a great opportunity to gain valuable high altitude experience before trying to scale a 8000m peak. Combined with a beautiful and challenging approach from Tumlingtar to Makalu Base Camp, across Sherpani Col, Baruntse glacier, the West Col and with the Mingbo La as challenging exit to the Solo Khumbu, this Baruntse expedition is probably one of the most rewarding and complete climbing trips you can make in Nepal. So if you're looking for a remote, wide variety trek in combination with challenging high passes and a relatively easy 7000m climb, this Baruntse expedition is the right trip!

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+ Trip description

From Tumlingtar to Makalu Base Camp

The first part starts from the tropical village of Tumlingtar to the Makalu Base Camp, which is located at an altitude of approximately 5000m. This is beautiful and remote trek that follows the Arun river through tropical areas, thick forests and deep, green valleys. The crux in this part of the trip is the famous Shipto La (4,216m), the pass that can be blocked by a thick layer of snow. After Shipton La, the trail has no further difficulties up to Makala Base camp, other than many great viewpoints and great camping spots!

From Makalu Base Camp across Sherpani Col to Baruntse glacier

From the alpine areas below the massive Makalu range the route continues up to the Sherpani Col (6135m). It's not a very difficult trail, but we're gaining altitude fast here. The short, but challenging ascent and descent of Sherpani Col includes some mixed climbing before you step on the almost flat and wide Baruntse glacier. The Baruntse glacier is the place to establish our advanced base camp. This is the heart of the high Himalayas! After a well chosen acclimatizing and training program you will be ready to start climbing.

Climbing Baruntse

Climbing Baruntse involves preparing only two camps: the ABC (6000m) and camp 1 (6500m ) from where you will make ayour summit bid. The ascent via the South-East Ridge is not technical, but as altitude and physical exertion at this altitude are very demanding, even the slightest difficulty can be hard to deal with. There are a few more technical sections that involves steep ice with an angle of 50 degrees, some rock scrambling, some sharp ridge sections and a possible difficult ice cliff before you reach the wider summit ridge. As you may expect, the summit reveals a stunning 360 degrees view on the high Himalayas with impressive close ups of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu.

The last challenge, crossing Mingbo La

After climbing Baruntse, we will descent from the West Col all the way down to the base camp and the wild and remote Honku valley. There are three options to continue from here: crossing the Amphu Labtsa to Chukung valley and Island Peak (North), crossing Mingbo La to Ama Dablam base camp (West) or crossing Mera La to the Hinku valley (South). All have their own pro’s and con’s, but it remains a choice between three great journeys! In this itinerary we have chosen to exit the valley by crossing the Mingbo La as it’s a short and spectacular route, hardly visited by other expeditions and it provides a beautiful 200m abseil from the steep, fluted Mingbo snow slope. The abseil brings you on top of the Nare glacier from where you will climb and trek down to Ama Dablam’s base camp and across the popular Everest trail back to the Sherpa settlements of Namche Bazar and Lukla from where you will be flying back to Kathmandu. A long, but great Himalayan journey has ended!

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Baruntse Expedition via Sherpani Col		Different options
1 - Kathmandu - Briefing 2 - Tumlingtar - Khandbari 3 - Bhotebas 4 - Mure 5 - Seduwa 6 - Tashigoan 7 - Kauma 8 - Shipton La - Dobato 9 - Temalan Kharka 10 - Rest & acclimatization 11 - Langmale Kharka 12 - Sherson 13 - Makalu Base Camp 14 - Rest & acclimatization 15 - Upper Barun Glacier Camp 16 - Sherpani Col Base Camp 17 - Rest & acclimatization	18 - Baruntse ABC 19 - Climb to camp 1 20 - Rest & acclimatize 21 - Climb to camp 2 22 - Summit Baruntse 23 - Spare day 24 - Spare day 25 - Spare day 26 - Spare day 27 - Baruntse Base Camp 28 - Hinku Pokhari 29 - Mingbo Base Camp (East) 30 - Mingbo Base Camp (West) 31 -Pangboche 32 - Namche 33 - Lukla 34 - Kathmandu	31 days - Mera Peak & Baruntse Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Services
Base Camp services are not available in this trip

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated this Baruntse Expedition with DO-E3/4. This means that it's a streneous to very streneous trip while the climbing sections are easy (facile) to difficult (difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

Trek to Baruntse ABC across high passes
In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of Tumlingtar using a small STOL aircraft. This trip takes you through different climate zones, starting from the low, tropical area’s through warm and humid area’s, little villages, beautiful green valleys, wild forests where the ground can get muddy and slippery, across suspension bridges and wild rivers to remote and icy alpine area’s. The first high pass in this trip is the Shipton La (4127m), covering three different sub-passes. After crossing the Shipton La, the vegetation changes and you’ll be trekking gradually up through grassy, sandy valleys with lots of boulders. Makalu Base Camp itself is located in a large flat, sandy valley surrounded by giant rocky mountains, moraines and snow and ice. Above Makalu Base Camp ice, snow and rock dominate even wilder alpine scenery. You’ll be trekking and climbing in this isolated terrain, crossing the steep Sherpani Col (mixed rock/snow at 40-60 dgrees), down to the flat Baruntse glacier and the ABC somewhere below the South-East Ridge.

Climbing Baruntse
From ABC the snow slopes are getting steeper (35 degrees) until a col where the first camp will be placed. From camp 1 to the summit the route steepens with short, but steep ice steps with an angle of 45 to 50 degrees and some rocky sections that require scrambling. Some narrow and sharp ridge sections lead to the crux of the ascent, a possible difficult ice cliff. This cliff has been a problematic obstacle for several expeditions in previous years. Getting across this cliff, a beautiful, classic, exposed snow ridge leads to the summit of Baruntse.

From West Col across Mingbo La
The expedition continious by descending the steep West Col (200m abseil) followed by and a long and tiring rocky ridge to the original Baruntse base camp. From Baruntse base camp you will have to descent even more across a moraine glacier and more rocky areas to the bottom of the Honku valley. Mingbo La is reached by climbing wild moraines and a beautiful, but tiring glacier. A short, steep rock section leads to the pass, from which you will have to rappel down steeply on solid snow and big flat rocks (200m). The broken Nare glacier changes every season, so trail finding may be difficult as well as the icy descent itself. As soon as you leave the ice, you will continue to descent across huge boulders and slippery rock sections. There are no trails here, although stone cairns show you the right direction. After a while easy, sandy trails appear again which lead you to Ama Dablam’s base camp and all the way down to the main Everest trail. It’s a long descent! In the last days you’ll trek back to warmer valleys, through forests, across easy trails and tiring passes, all the way back to Namche Bazar and Lukla. The slopes in this trip can be steep so now and then. Landslides and falling rocks are possible at certain stages.

In general...
You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 7000m peaks: This mountain is more than 7000m high. Climbing to 7000m may involve possible health problems, lethargy and extreme weather conditions.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: April, May
• Autumn: October, November

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Rain may be expected in the lower areas below Shipton La. The Shipton La may be covered in deep snow. If you like to try to avoid a late monsoon and possible flight cancellations, you should start this trip from half October. Normally, the weather will be more stable by then. However, mountain storms and fog are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.