Climbing Ama Dablam 6812m

Ama Dablam... for many the worlds most beautiful and stunning mountain. The stunning pyramid shape is often compared with the famous Matterhorn and Khan Tengri. Ama Dablam is located in the Solo Khumbu near famous 8000m peaks as Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. For climbers Ama Dablam is a populair and famous, technical climbing objective. Its normal route, the South West Ridge, offers a semi-technical, but climbable and fun route of steep snow, ice and rock sections in spectacular and very exposed situations. In combination with the special Sherpa atmosphere of the Solo Khumbu, the Amdablam Expedition provides you a unique climbing experience in the Himalayas and a great preparation for an 8000m peak like Everest or Lhotse!

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+ Trip description

The trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp

The first part of this expedition is the classical trek to the Ama Dablam base camp itself. The trek to the base camp is a great training and acclimatizing trip, trekking through beautiful and peaceful mountain sceneries, green valleys and little Sherpa settlements. You can easily trek to the base camp yourself as you'll find plenty of good lodges along the trail. If you like you can extend your trek by exploring different areas of the Solo Khumbu, like the Renjo, Gokyo and Chukung valleys, getting fit and well acclimatized. The first important goal is to reach the Ama Dablam base camp in good health and properly acclimatized, so don't rush it, take your time. The standard itinerary to trek from Lukla to the Ama Dablam base camp is about 5 days. Like we said, you can also extend it if you want. You can trek with one of our Sherpa's, you can trek alone or with friends. The costs for lodging and food during this short trek are not included as you're far better of if you pay for food and lodging yourself. To give you some guidance, we will suggest you some of our preferred lodges along the trail.

Climbing Ama Dablam

After your arrival in the base camp, you deserve some rest in your private tent while our excellent crew will take care of you. In the first days an important acclimatizing and training program continues until you’re ready to start climbing to Camp 2. Climbing Ama Dablam is a multi week process of acclimatizing, ascending, descending, resting, exploring, preparing abc (5350m), camp 1 (5700m) and camp 2 (5950m ). Due to increased avalanche risks around Camp 3 in last years, we have decided not to use this Camp anymore for overnights. Naturally, we have adapted our climbing shedule to deal with this important change. Most important is that you stay healthy, energized and patient till the time that a proper window opens for a summit attempt. This is one of the main challenges, to keep yourself motivated and energized in this cold en rough mountain environmment.

Climbing Ama Dablam via the South-East ridge is technical, but very possible. The altitude and physical exertion make it even harder! The climb involves technical and potentially dangerous sections. The technical obstacles are the Yellow Tower (6 metres of French 4th class), the Grey Tower (partly French Class 4), several fourth class-scrambling pitches in snow, rock and ice, the Mushroom Ridge area, a steep rock, snow & ice ridge traverse, two pitches of 40+ degree snow-ice and a short 4 metre high snow-ice step of around 75 degree and a few 30-48 degree snowfields just below the summit. At all difficult sections you will use fixed ropes to climb up and abseil or climb down again. After summiting you will descent in one or two days to base camp and eventually to Lukla and Kathmandu by the same route.

+ Itinerary & different options

[ Arrival in Kathmandu / free days ]

Ama Dablam Expedition Southwest Ridge		Different options
1. Kathmandu - Briefing 2. Fly to Lukla, Phakding 3. Namche Bazaar (3440m) 4. Rest & Acclimatization 5. Pangboche (3860m) 6. Base Camp (4650m) 7. Rest, Acclimatization 8. ABC (5350m), BC 9. ABC 10. camp 1 (5700m), BC 11. Rest & Acclimatization 12. ABC 13. Camp 1 14. Camp 2 (5950m), BC 15. Base Camp	16. Camp 1 17. Camp 2 18. Camp 2 to 6,230m, BC 19. Base Camp 20. ABC 21. Camp 2 22. Ama Dablam Summit 23. Ama Dablam Summit 24. Ama Dablam Summit 25. Base Camp 26. Pangboche 27. Namche 28. Lukla 29. Kathmandu	Other routes on Ama Dablam. On request Do you prefer a different route or itinerary? Just contact us and we will be more than happy to think with you and organize the tailor made trip you're looking for...

[ End of services / free days / departure / continue travelling ]

+ What's included & excluded in the price?

To make things easy for you, we have put together different service packages that suit most people. However, if you want to make it really special, we also provide full tailor made services. Have a look at the fixed packages first or download a detailed comparison sheet.

» Download Comparison Sheet (pdf)

Summit Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your entire expedition as comfortable as possible. The staff takes care of all tasks and activities, you are not required to help.

Summit Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you a full organized and guided expedition until the summit. This package includes organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities.

Base Camp Service - Pro
The Pro package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) itself for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a complete professional, experienced staff & crew, all needed equipment, all services and luxuries that makes your trip to the base camp and in the base camp itself as comfortable as possible. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

Base Camp Service - Basic
The Basic package provides you all services up to base camp and in the base camp (or ABC) for the entire expedition. This includes all organizational arrangements, a small professional, experienced staff & crew, essential equipment & services only, without the luxuries of the Pro package. Although professionally organized, this package is much more basic and adventurous, you are required to help with all tasks and activities. Above base camp you organize everything you need yourself and you are responsible for your own safety, equipment, food and strategy.

+ How difficult is this trip?

We have rated this Ama Dablam Expedition with E5. This means that it's a very streneous trip while the climbing sections are very difficult (tres difficile). Have a look at a general description of these codes! Below we'll try to describe the specific difficulties of this trip.

The trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp

In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of the small but busy mountain village of Lukla using a small STOL aircraft. From Lukla you trek across very good trails, though little mountain villages, deep, green valley’s, across suspension bridges and wild rivers up to colder alpine areas of the Ama Dablam Base Camp. From Namche Bazar, the main trade center with all modern facilities, you trek through wide and deep valleys to the famous village of Pangboche. The last part involves trekking across good trails to a wide, grassy area where the base camp will be placed, just below Ama Dablam itself.

Climbing Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam ABC - 5350m
From the Ama Dablam Base Camp it’s about a 1000m long climb to Camp 1. The first part you'll have to climb an easy, but tiring ridge to an abvious boulder field on the South-West ridge where the Advanced Base Camp will be placed near a stream with fresh water.

Ama Dablam Camp 1 - 5700m
Camp 1 is placed on a steep rocky area about 500m above the ABC. Although tiring, there are no technical challenges this day.

Ama Dablam Camp 2 - 5950m
The ascent from Camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical part of the expedition which takes about 5 hours. You'll have to cross exciting granites slabs and snowy patches. The most challenging part however is the rock tower, also called Yellow Tower, just before Camp 2. The climb between Camp 1 and the famous Yellow Tower is about French class 3-4. Of course we will fix ropes wherever needed. Camp 2 is a narrow exposed area atop a rock pillar, so it’s a good idea to negotiate with other expeditions about the use of Camp 2.

Ama Dablam Camp 3 - 6400m - Summit - 6812m
The route to Camp 3 involves climbing on the steep ridge over the 70-degree couloir: the intimidating rock wall of the Grey Tower. From here you need to climb a steep pitch of rock and ice. Climb across the famous Mushroom Ridge with its snow and ice with patches of bare rock at places leading a knife-edge, crested with snow, and overhung on both sides. Camp 3 lies on a relatively flat snow field just above the big snow Mushroom Ridge. Due to risk of (fatal) avalanches in the past, we normally do not use Camp 3 to sleep. We only may use Camp 3 as a short rest place on our way to the summit. It takes about 3-4 hours from Camp 2 to Camp 3.

The route from Camp 3 to the Summit is mostly straight up but comparatively less technical than before. The climb is about a 3-4 hours climb up. Continue up the steep snow slopes before you reach the fluted, but easy and solid, 30-48 degree snowfields that lead to the summit. Summarizing, these are the difficulties you will have to deal with:

• Yellow Tower with 6 metres/20 feet of French 4th class, British Severe, North American 5.5;
• Grey Tower, partly French Class 4, British Severe, or 5.5;
• Several fourth class-scrambling pitches in snow, rock and ice;
• The Mushroom Ridge area, a rock, snow & ice ridge traverse;
• Two pitches of 40+ degree snow-ice and a short 4 metre high snow-ice step of around 75 degree;
• A few 30-48 degree snowfields below the summit;

It may be cold and windy at the summit, but the views are breathtaking: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, Makalu! You probably won't stay very long here as it's still a long way down to Camp 2. From here you'll trek down to Ama Dablam’s base camp and across the popular Everest trail back to the Sherpa settlements of Namche Bazar and Lukla from where you will be flying back to Kathmandu.

In general...
Ama Dablam is a very technical mountain. Climbable, but technical! The ascent and descent to/from Camp 1 is not very technical as most of the slopes do not exceed an angle of 30 to 50 degrees. Above Camp 1 there are technical climbing sections of very steep rock, snow & ice. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. However, you should feel comfortable with advanced rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions at higher altitude, like: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. All members should have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous, technical mountaineering experience at a higer altitude (6000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 7000m peaks: This mountain is more than 7000m high. Climbing to 7000m may involve possible health problems, lethargy and extreme weather conditions.

+ What clothes & equipment do I need?

After booking we will send you a final, detailed clothes & equipment list with all the required clothes and (climbing) equipment that you need for this trip. To get a really good idea what you will get from us, you may download an example equipment list.

» Download an Example Equipment List (pdf)

+ What is the best time to make this trip?

An indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views)

• Spring: April, May
• Autumn: October, November, December

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)

• Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
• Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Rain or wet snow may be expected in Spring and Autumn. As Ama Dablam stands alone, a micro climate is easily formed around it, covering the mountain in thick clouds. Mountain storms and fog are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.