General trip description

Expedition route: Katmandu, Kodari, Zangmu, Nylam, Chinese BC, Intermediate Camp, ABC, Summit. Same route back.

In this expedition you will drive from Kathmandu to Kodari at the border with China/Tibet. After all custom formalities you will drive on through the Himalayas and across the Tibetan plateau all the way to Shishapangma’s Chinese Base Camp. Depending on the weather, the road may be very muddy and bumpy forcing a slow adventurous ride across bridges, streams and small, steep road sections. The ride offers stunning views on the Tibetan mountain ranges ending in the Chinese base camp situated at 5000m with spectacular views of the mountain and the summit ridge. ABC is located at the glacier on the west side of the moraines at 5400m. The climb to camp 1 crosses a glacier to a remarkable flat area with lots of seracs (ice towers). An easy snow slope of 35 degrees leads to camp 1 at 6200m. Camp 2 at 6700m is reached by climbing another snow/ice slope with an angle of 30-35 degrees. An almost flat plateau and a wide, low angled slope lead to the obvious rocks and the buttress around 7400m where camp 3 will be established. The most technical part is to come in the final section as the summit ridge starts with a 40-60 degrees angled slope of snow & ice. After this part the route becomes easier and ends in a small, central summit at 8007m. For most climbers this will be the final summit. However, the real and highest ‘main summit’ is a several hours of delicate climbing away, connected to the central summit by an unstable, sharp ridge. For this reason, most climbers and expedition organizers consider the central summit as the final summit. After summiting, you will descent along the same route.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style. Classic expedition style means that the summit is approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: base camp, advanced base camp and one or more high camps.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, a liaisons officer, drivers, yak drivers. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions and has climbed Shishapangma or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. A strong team of experienced climbing Sherpa’s prepares and secures the climbing route, establishes al camps and carries all equipment & food up and down the mountain. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the summit in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

Shishapangma is one of the easier 8000m mountains to climb in the world. Climbing Shishapangma is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 40 degrees. However, there are a few, short, technical climbing sections of steeper snow, ice and rock and the mountain is famous for its strong and cold winds. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions, preferably at higher altitude. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. You should also have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (6500-7000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: April, May
- Autumn: August, September

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10C / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +25ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -30ºC

Shishapangma is known for its strong winds (chill factor). Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heavy rain, dust, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.