General trip description

Expedition route: Katmandu, Kodari, Zangmu, Nylam, Tingri, Chinese BC, Interim Camp, ABC, Summit. Same route back.

In this expedition you will drive from Kathmandu to Kodari at the border with China/Tibet. After all custom formalities you will drive on through the Himalayas and across the Tibetan plateau to Cho Oyu’s Chinese Base Camp. Depending on the weather, the road may be very muddy and bumpy forcing a slow adventurous ride across bridges, streams and small, steep road sections. What follows is a nice trek on talus slopes and rocky moraines to the Advanced Base Camp. From the ABC, it’s a straight forward climb with the exception of some short technical sections. The climb to camp 1 (North West ridge) involves a glacier crossing and a tiring climb across loose scree, stones, snow and ice. On the way to camp 2 you will encounter the first technical section, a six meter high, 60 degrees snow& ice wall. From camp 2 to 3 there’s another wall of about 40 degrees snow & ice. From camp 3 at 7450m you will start your summit attempt by climbing through some rocky sections to a huge summit plateau that hardly reveals the real summit: 8201m! After a successful summit attempt you will descent all the way down to ABC via the same route. Depending on the situation and time frame, you may choose to return to Kathmandu earlier as planned by hiring private transportation or hang out in ABC until the entire expedition departs from the mountain.

From the nicely located Advanced Base Camp, it’s a straight forward climb with some short technical sections. The climb to camp 1 (North West ridge) crosses a glacier and a tiring hill with loose scree, stones, snow and ice. On the way to camp 2 you will encounter the first technical section, a six meter high, 60 degrees snow/ice wall. From camp 2 to 3 there’s another wall of about 40 degrees snow/ice. From camp 3 at 7450m you will start your summit bid trough some rocky sections to a huge summit plateau that hardly reveals the real summit a ‘little’ further: 8201m! After a successful summit attempt you will descent all the way down to ABC. Depending on the situation and time frame, you may choose to return to Kathmandu earlier as planned or hang out in ABC until the entire expedition departs from the mountain.

During the whole expedition you will be resting a lot, making sure you’re body adapts to the high altitude and remains and/or gets as strong as possible. Be aware that you will have to descent several times to ABC again, a process of ascending, resting and descending. Depending on the chosen service package your expedition leader (and personal high altitude Sherpa) will discuss all strategic climbing options with you in detail.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style. Classic expedition style means that the summit is approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: base camp, advanced base camp and one or more high camps. Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong and experienced team of climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, a liaisons officer, drivers, yak drivers. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions and has climbed Cho Oyu or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty or himself. A strong team of experienced climbing Sherpa’s prepares and secures the climbing route, establishes al camps and carries all equipment & food up and down the mountain. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included. Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the summit in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

Cho Oyu is one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb in the world. Climbing Cho Oyu is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 50 degrees. However, there are a few, short, technical climbing sections of steeper snow, ice and rock. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions, preferably at higher altitude. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, anchoring, belaying, abseiling and crevasse rescue. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. You should also have knowledge and experience in winter camping, avalanche danger and recognition, prevention and treatment of high altitude sickness and frostbite. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for climbers with previous mountaineering experience at higher altitudes (6500-7000m). As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

* Note 8000m peaks: This mountain is more than 8000m high. Climbing above 8000m (death zone), involves an increased risk of serious health problems, complete lethargy and very extreme weather conditions. For personal safety reasons you should be able to climb independently and be able to survive without help from anybody else.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: April, May
- Autumn: August, September

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -10C / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +25ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -30ºC

Tibet and Tibetan mountains are known for its strong winds (chill factor). Beside the wind you may encounter deep snow, heavy rain, dust, heat and very strong sunshine. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.