General trip description

Expedition route: Kathmandu, Lukla, Pangkongma, Khare, Mera La, Mera Peak, Honku valley, Mingbo La, Namche Bazar, Lukla, Kathmandu

In this expedition you will fly to the tiny airstrip of Lukla using a small STOL aircraft. From an altitude of 2800m you will trek across good trails through thick forests, little villages and green valleys where the ground can get muddy and slippery, to remote and icy alpine areas. The Pangkongma ridge trail leads through thick forests where the trails can get difficult. By crossing several rocky passes, the route descents again through thick forests area’s where trails can get slippery after rain. The landscape changes very gradually into grassy and rocky area’s as you climb higher. From Dig Kharka, the flat valley, the trail climbs steeply up to Khare and the Mera glacier. At some stages the route leads across mixed terrain of rock & snow/ice where it can get slippery. The top of the flat Mera glacier is easily reached by a short, icy climb. The base camp itself can be reached by descenting the rocky part at the left or by climbing down directly from the glacier. From the base camp you will climb to the high camp through a crevassed glacier area to an obvious rock section. From here a tiring snow trail leads up to Mera’s final summit ridge which involves a steep part of about 50m and a possible crevasse crossing just below the summit. Descent by the same route. This journey continues down across reasonably good trails to the grassy and rocky fields of the Honku valley. The Mingbo La is reached by climbing huge moraines and a beautiful, but tiring glacier. A short, steep rock section leads you to the pass, from which you will have to rappel down steeply on solid snow and big flat rocks. The broken Nare glacier changes every season, so trail finding may be difficult as well as the icy descent itself. As soon as you leave the ice, you will continue to descent across huge boulders and slippery rock sections. There are no trails here, although stone cairns show you the right direction. After a while easy, sandy trails appear again which lead you to Ama Dablam’s base camp and all the way down to the main Everest trail. It’s a long descent! In the last days you’ll trek back to warmer valleys, through forests, across easy trails and tiring passes, all the way back to Namche Bazar and Lukla. The slopes in this trip can be steep so now and then. Landslides and falling rocks are possible at certain stages.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style only or in combination with lodge style. Classic expedition style means that the trekking route and the route to the summit are approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: trekking camps, base camp and one or more high camps. Simple guesthouses may be available at certain stages and may be used, too.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong team of (other) climbing Sherpa’s, cooks and porters and/or yaks. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions; he knows the route and has climbed the passes and mountains in this trip or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. The expedition leader and the climbing Sherpa’s prepare and secure the trekking / climbing route and establish al camps. A strong team of porters carries all equipment & food. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the different goals in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

The trek to Mera Peak does not require specific experience or skills. You just should feel comfortable walking on steep, rocky, slippery and unstable terrain. Climbing Mera Peak is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 35 degrees. However, there are crevassed areas that have to be crossed. The descent of the Mingbo La is more technical, requiring a steep and long abseil. Descending Nare glacier requires smart route finding in a heavily crevassed area. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions, preferably at higher altitude. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. View the trip’s difficulty for more details.

This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: March, April, May
- Autumn: October, November

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Rain may be expected in the lower areas around Lukla and Pangkongma. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.