General trip description

Expedition route: Kathmandu, Tumlingtar, Makalu BC, Sherpani Col, West Col, Mera Peak, Zatrwa La, Lukla, Kathmandu

This trip takes you through different climate zones, starting from the low, tropical area’s of Tumlingtar through warm and humid area’s, little villages, beautiful green valleys, wild forests where the ground can get muddy and slippery, across suspension bridges and wild rivers to remote and icy alpine area’s. The first high pass in this trip is the Shipton La (4127m), covering three different sub-passes. After crossing the Shipton La, the vegetation changes and you’ll be trekking gradually up through grassy, sandy valleys with lots of boulders. Makalu Base Camp itself is located in a large flat, sandy valley surrounded by giant rocky mountains, moraines and snow and ice. Above Makalu Base Camp ice, snow and rock dominate even wilder alpine scenery. You’ll be trekking and climbing in this isolated terrain for several days, crossing Sherpani Col, Baruntse glacier and West Col, all the way down to Baruntse Base Camp. From here you’ll decent further to the isolated, flat, grassy and stony Honku valley. After a few pleasant days in this wild valley, you’ll climb up to the Mera glaciers, its high camp and eventually its summit at 6476m. From the base camp you will climb to the high camp through a crevassed glacier area to an obvious rock section. From here a tiring snow trail leads up to Mera’s final summit ridge which involves a steep part of 50m and a possible crevasse crossing just below the summit. The last days of this trip you’ll trek back to warm, green valleys, through thick forests, across stony trails and a few tiring passes, all the way back to Lukla. The slopes in this trip can be steep so now and then. Landslides and falling rocks are possible at certain stages.

Team composition

This expedition is organized in classic expedition style only or in combination with lodge style. Classic expedition style means that the trekking route and the route to the summit are approached by establishing different camps on the mountain: trekking camps, base camp and one or more high camps. Simple guesthouses may be available at certain stages and may be used, too.

Within our full expedition service - package, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese expedition leader, supported by a strong team of (other) climbing Sherpa’s, cooks and porters and/or yaks. The expedition leader has managed many Himalayan expeditions; he knows the route and has climbed the passes and mountains in this trip or mountains of equal altitude and difficulty himself. The expedition leader and the climbing Sherpa’s prepare and secure the trekking / climbing route and establish al camps. A strong team of porters carries all equipment & food. Check the different, available service packages to see what is included and not included.

Well developed and proven trekking, climbing and acclimatization schedules with sufficient rest & acclimatization days guarantee the safety and the highest chance to reach the different goals in this expedition. The strategy and all options will be discussed on the way.

Minimum / maximum group size:
- Private expeditions: no limit
- Fixed departure expeditions: minimum 3 members / maximum:12 members

Experience & skills

The trek to Sherpani Col does not require specific experience or skills. You just should feel comfortable walking on steep, rocky, slippery and unstable terrain. Crossing Sherpani Col involves some short, but steep rock, snow & ice sections with an angle of 40-60 degrees. The descent to the Baruntse glacier is steep on mixed terrain. Climbing Mera Peak is not very technical as most of the slopes vary from an angle of 10 to 35 degrees. However, there are crevassed areas that have to be crossed. To ensure safety, ropes will be fixed at all difficult sections. You should feel comfortable with basic rock and alpine climbing techniques in winter conditions. This includes the following techniques: using ice axe and crampons, abseiling. View the trip’s difficulty for more details. This expedition is open for trekkers/climbers with basic mountaineering experience or fit and keen trekkers who like to gain mountaineering experience at higher altitudes. It's an advantage if you have previous experience in winter camping and basic rock and alpine climbing techniques, although this is not mandatory. Basic alpine climbing training is built into the trips itinerary. As you’re part of a group during difficult situations and demanding activities, you must have experience in working and living in and with a group of people who share the same, common goal. An easy going, flexible attitude is a must.

Equipment list

After booking all expedition members will receive a final equipment list detailing all necessary clothing and (climbing) equipment to be individually provided. You may download an example list on this page (right top).

Best season, climate, temperatures

Indication of best seasons to make this trip (stable weather and clear views):
- Spring: mid March, April, early May
- Autumn: October, November

Indication of temperatures: (depending on weather conditions)
- Below 5000m varying from: Day time: +10ºC / +30ºC. Night time: -5ºC / +15ºC
- Above 5000m varying from: Day time: -5ºC / +10ºC. Night time: -15ºC / -25ºC

Deep snow at Shipton La may be expected in (early) spring. Rain may be expected in the lower areas from Tumlingtar to Shipton La in early October. Mountain storms are unpredictable and can arise quickly, changing trekking & climbing conditions dramatically. Rain, snow and strong winds are always possible.